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What Size Power Station Do I Need?

Two numbers decide it: the watts your biggest device pulls at once, and the watt-hours everything adds up to over a day. Here is how to get both.

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A tape measure and hand tools laid out on a workbench

The short answer

Start here: find your biggest load, then add up a day. Running watts are typical label figures — check your own equipment.
ApplianceRunning wattsSurge wattsPer day
Phone charging10W—20-40Wh
LED lights5-15W—40-90Wh
Laptop45-65W—150-400Wh
CPAP, no humidifier30-60W—180-400Wh
CPAP with humidifier70-120W—500-900Wh
12V camping fridge45-60W150W400-550Wh
Full-size refrigerator100-200W600-1,200W1,000-1,500Wh
Starlink terminal50-75W—1,200-1,800Wh
Microwave900-1,200W1,500W50Wh per 3 min
Electric kettle1,200-1,500W—100Wh per boil
Space heater1,500W—1,500Wh per hour
RV rooftop air conditioner1,200-1,800W3,000W+10kWh+ per day

Almost everyone asking this question is really asking two separate questions at once, and mixing them up is what leads to the wrong purchase.

Watts are a rate — what a device pulls at any given instant. They determine whether the power station can run the device *at all*. Watt-hours are a quantity — how much energy the battery holds. They determine *how long*. A 300W unit cannot run a 1,500W kettle for one second, no matter how big its battery. A 2,000W unit with a small battery runs the kettle and then dies. You need both numbers right.

Step 1: find your biggest single load

Go down your list and find the highest running-watts figure. That number sets the minimum continuous AC output you can buy. If it is a kettle, a microwave, a griddle or a hair dryer, you are shopping at 1,500W or above and most of the small units are out immediately.

Then check whether that device has a motor or a compressor. If it does — fridge, freezer, pump, air conditioner, some power tools — find the surge figure too. A compressor that runs at 150W can demand 600-1,200W for a fraction of a second at start-up. A unit rated 300W continuous with a 600W surge will run a small 12V fridge and trip on a full-size one. This is the single most common sizing failure, and it is invisible until the moment it isn't.

Step 2: add up a realistic day

For each device: watts x hours = watt-hours. Add them all. Then add roughly 20% on top, because inverting DC to AC is not free — expect to lose somewhere in the region of 10-15% to conversion, plus a margin so you are not planning to hit zero.

Step 3: sanity-check the weight

This is the step people skip, and it is the one that decides whether the unit ever leaves the garage. Published weights in the 1kWh class run from 23.8 lb to 35.27 lb — roughly a 48% spread for the same amount of stored energy. Above 2kWh you are into 60 lb and beyond, and above 3kWh you are buying something with wheels. If the unit is going to be carried, the weight guide is worth five minutes before you commit.

The capacity tiers, in plain terms

CapacityWhat it honestly coversTypical weight
250-300WhPhones, lights, a laptop, a CPAP without humidifier for one night8-11 lb
500-800WhAll of the above plus a 12V fridge for about a day12-20 lb
1,000-1,200WhA fridge for two nights, or a careful day of home backup24-36 lb
2,000WhA comfortable full day of home backup, or several days of van loads50-60 lb
3,000-4,000Wh+Multi-day outage, 240V loads, wheels required100 lb and up

Buy for the trip you take, not the trip you imagine

The most expensive mistake in this category is not under-buying. It is buying 2kWh for a use case that needed 500Wh, discovering it weighs 55 lb, and leaving it at home. Capacity you do not carry is capacity you do not have. If your honest answer is 'mostly weekends, sometimes a fridge', size for that and accept that the one trip a year where you wanted more is cheaper to solve with a panel than with 30 extra pounds.

Once you have a number, the roundups pick up from here: best portable power stations for the overall shortlist, camping and van life for the situational ones, and home backup if the outage is the reason you are here.

Questions

Frequently asked questions

What size power station do I need to run a refrigerator?
For a full-size household fridge, budget 1,000-1,500Wh per 24 hours and make sure the unit's surge rating clears the compressor start — often 600-1,200W against a 100-200W running draw. A 12V camping fridge is far easier at 400-550Wh a day. Full detail.
What size power station do I need to run a CPAP?
Without the heated humidifier, 180-400Wh a night, so a 300Wh unit covers one night and a 1,000Wh unit covers several. With the humidifier on it can be 500-900Wh a night, which changes the answer completely. CPAP watt-hours.
Is a 1000W power station enough?
For most camping and van use, yes — 1,000W of output runs everything except heating appliances, and around 1,000Wh of capacity covers a fridge for two nights. It is not enough for an RV air conditioner or a full day of home backup with a normal fridge. What a 1000W runs.
How much extra capacity should I add for losses?
About 20% over your calculated total. Inverting DC to AC typically costs 10-15%, cold weather costs more, and you should not plan to run a battery to zero. If your maths says 1,000Wh, shop at 1,200Wh.
Should I buy bigger than I need, just in case?
Usually not. Extra capacity is extra weight, and weight is what stops a unit being used. A 500Wh user who buys 2kWh often ends up carrying nothing. If you occasionally need more, a solar panel is a lighter and cheaper answer than a bigger battery.
Does surge rating matter if I only run electronics?
No. Laptops, phones, lights, TVs and routers draw steadily with no start-up spike. Surge only matters for motors and compressors — fridges, pumps, power tools, air conditioners.

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