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What Size Power Station Do I Need?
Two numbers decide it: the watts your biggest device pulls at once, and the watt-hours everything adds up to over a day. Here is how to get both.
Guides
The sizing layer. Every number here is arithmetic you can check, not a claim you have to take on trust.

Search any sizing question in this category — 'what size power station to run a refrigerator', 'can a 1000W power station run a fridge', 'how many watt-hours does a CPAP use' — and the results are dominated by manufacturer blogs. Anker, Jackery, EcoFlow, BLUETTI and half a dozen others all publish the answer, and every one of those pages ends by recommending that manufacturer's own unit.
That is not dishonest, exactly. It is just structurally incapable of saying 'buy the competitor's, it is better for you' or 'buy nothing, you do not need this'. These guides exist to say both when they are true.
What size power station do I need is the pillar page — an appliance table, the arithmetic, and how to turn your own list into a number. If the units confuse you (and mAh versus Wh confuses nearly everyone), read watt-hours explained first; it is 600 words and it makes the rest of the site legible.
Watts are a rate: how much a device draws at any instant. Watt-hours are a quantity: how much energy the battery holds. A power station has both a wattage limit (what it can run) and a watt-hour capacity (how long it can run it), and they are independent. A 300W/288Wh unit cannot run a 1,500W kettle for even one second. A 2,000W/1,024Wh unit runs the kettle happily and then runs out in under an hour of continuous boiling.
Almost every current unit worth buying uses LiFePO4 cells, rated for 3,000-4,000 cycles against a few hundred for the older NMC packs. That is the difference between a unit that lasts a decade of weekly use and one that noticeably fades in three years. The trade is weight: LiFePO4 stores less energy per pound. LiFePO4 vs NMC covers when the older chemistry still makes sense, and how long portable power stations last turns cycle ratings into calendar years.
The weight guide exists because every competitor lists weight in a spec table and then never discusses it. It is the spec most likely to determine whether the thing gets used, and the published range in a single capacity class is close to 50%. If you are choosing between two units with similar numbers, that page is the tiebreaker.
In this section
Start here
Two numbers decide it: the watts your biggest device pulls at once, and the watt-hours everything adds up to over a day. Here is how to get both.
Manufacturers quote mAh, Ah and Wh more or less at random. One formula converts them all, and it is worth two minutes of your life.
One chemistry lasts a decade and weighs more. The other is lighter and fades faster. There is a right answer, and it depends on how often you will use the thing.
Nearly everything that does not make heat, and a few things that do — briefly. Here is the list, with runtimes rather than reassurances.
Yes — and the reason people get this wrong is that a fridge's most important number is not printed on the fridge.
One setting on your machine roughly triples its power draw. Get that wrong and you buy a battery that dies at 3am.
The cycle rating on the box is real, and it is almost never the thing that ends the unit's life.
The spec nobody ranks on
Every roundup lists weight in a table and then never mentions it again. It is the spec most likely to decide whether you ever use the thing.
Questions